Goan cuisine has been influenced by an exotic blend of sea, spices and foreign invaders – first the Portuguese, then the hippies and lately food-savvy travellers – which means delicious Indian snacks, fantastic fish and modern fusion are all on offer
Like the rest of India, Goa has lots of great snacks. Ros omelette (ros is Konkani for gravy, in this case chicken, coconut and lime juice) is a local delicacy, served after 7pm. Sandeep Gaddo, by Singbal bookshop in Panaji, serves one of the best. Wedged between the Mapusa bread and flower markets, there’s a small, nameless corner full of hardy market women wolfing down mirchi pakora (batter-fried green chilli) and chai. For the late, late snack, Ajit tea stall, outside the Mapusa bus stand, serves up a famous clam xacuti (curry) from 4am to 6am. And also in Mapusa, there’s an unnamed shop near the Rashtroli temple (opposite the Amul Milk Shop) serving incredible beetroot samosas.
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